Thursday, March 1, 2007

Let them eat cake (but, just a bite sized portion)

March 2007
By Dale J. Venturini
President & CEO of Rhode Island Hospitality and Tourism Association

According to a survey of more than 1,000 chefs across the country, the hottest trend in food for 2007 is desserts. But don’t grab your second piece of cake just yet. The “in” dessert for 2007 is bite-sized. No matter the size of the piece of cake, the fact that dessert tops the list, it shows that Americans are waging an inner debate – the desire to get fit and live healthier lives versus their desire to satiate their sweet tooth.

There is no question that Americans recognize the benefits of healthy eating. After dessert, the top food trends are all about locally grown and organic produces, grilled foods, whole grains, fresh herbs and grass-fed animals. So, how could it be that in an age of grocery stores bursting with healthy options and quick service restaurants offering low calorie/low fat options, that are our waistlines getting bigger?

As I was standing in the baking aisle at the local grocery store the other day, I couldn’t help but wonder when the mad rush for Crisco was going to start. There it stood, innocent enough on the bottom shelf, calling out to me. Not that I am an avid baker, but for some inexplicable reason, I felt a desire to buy not one, but two cans of Crisco. The thought of the government trying to tear me away from my childhood memories of warm, homemade cookies made with Crisco was too much to bear.

With New York City banning trans fat, followed by a great number of states jumping on the trans fat “ban” wagon, the debate over our dietary habits is just heating up.

No matter how well intended, when the government tries to tame our bad eating habits, the greater our desire to rebel. There is no doubt that Americans recognize the health benefits of eating better and getting more exercise, as indicated on the survey of the hottest food trends, but despite the governments best efforts, Americans keep getting fatter.

This rebellious streak in Americans is what this country was founded on. Americans have a long history of rioting over food issues. In the 18th and 19th century, the riots were most often caused by rising prices. They were defensive acts, in which protesters tried to reassert previously established claims or rights which were being challenged or violated by the government and often held in common public gathering places. Today, our civil disobedience takes place in America’s restaurants and kitchens, in the form of eating what we know is not good for us. As if to tell our government, free will, not government oversight, controls our dietary habits.

The role restaurant owners and chefs play in this see-saw world is one of balance. On one hand, it is the role of the restaurant industry to further refine and develop the American palate by setting trends with new flavors and new concepts. Just three years ago, the word organic scared many diners yet today it is often demanded. It was the restaurant industry that helped re-shape the definition of healthy and even made it “hip.” On the other hand, the restaurant industry must give Americans what they want, even if that is not what is best for them.

The battle over trans fat, super-sized portions and sugar-laden soft drinks is never going to end, simply because Americans taste buds are as diverse as America itself. To the American people and to the restaurant industry, it is not about what is healthy and what is not, but it is a battle over our freedom to choose.

Editor’s Note:
The Rhode Island Hospitality and Tourism Associations’ Board of Directors has voted to oppose legislation to ban trans fat in Rhode Island due to incomplete data regarding meaningful and necessary changes in the overall food delivery system, substitute products for trans fat, and consumer choice.

It is the position of the Association that, while it supports healthier choices, a long-term comprehensive public education and industry study should be the first course of action. Currently, the association is proactively working with industry experts and scientists to find a reasonable and viable solution, and looks forward to working with legislators on this very important issue.

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